Day 5


	Having slept to the accompaniment of the gently thrumming reservoir pumps, we woke to an empty lake! This strange landscape, which we realized provides the unusual habitat of being a tidal freshwater environment, is produced as the water is pumped up the mountain every night to utilize its natural fall during the next day.




	We had a relatively relaxed start to the day, first heading into Tanygrisiau for a breakfast, courtesy of Sophie and her mate Del from the JMT. After a slight detour (walking a complete circuit of the village) in search of either a shop, or the cafe, we finally found the others, and ordered cooked breakfasts, mugs of tea, and juice. It was great to chat with Del, and hear his enthusiasm for the mountains, and for us all to share our passion for the wild places. He was also able to confirm that the route we had identified for the day (over Bwlch y Rosydd and Cwm Corsiog to Llyn Gwynant, below Snowdon itself). Our path climbed steeply out of Tany, following more slate tracks up to the quarry. In the blistering sun we marveled at the fortitude of the men who would have made the daily trek before and after an arduous day’s work. As we climbed, we passed various abandoned buildings and workings, slates slotted into the ground as fences, and a beautiful lake covered in lilies and pretty water weeds.


			Reaching the top of our first climb of the day (with many more to follow) we were rewarded with the fascinating industrial archaeology of the slate mine. Abandoned buildings still standing, a water-wheel house built below and plunging stream, slate spoil piled in fanning heaps out from the mine plateau itself. We speculated about when the mine ceased to work, and about the difficulties of working so high in the hills, though we were able to clearly identify the levels where stone would have been carried down from the mountain.



	Lost in conversation, we followed the wrong track out of the workings, and had to retrace our steps for a short way - giving Nick a chance to test his acrobatic skills on a strange balancing bridge over a fence, the message baton taking on the unlikely role of tightrope-walker’s balance bar!


			We headed on up to Cwm Corsiog where we enjoyed the breeze on our backs, overlooking the lake as we ate our lunch. This was followed by more climbing until we reached Llyn ar Ardar, and the ridge, from where we able to view the Snowdon horseshow, every bit the impressive sight we had been promised. After another rest on the ridge, soaking up the view, the sun, and the burgeoning feeling of accomplishment as we finally spied our destination, we pressed on, conscious of the distance still to be covered before nightfall.




	We followed the hill downwards, through slightly marshy ground near the lakes, and then into more forgiving landscapes, fewer rocks, the sight of ferns by the streams, and scrubby trees between the boulders. We met a party of children and their leaders going up to the lake to camp, and they asked about the batons, keen to touch them, and excited and enthused about the idea of the journey. Some of them had competed their John Muir Award, and they all seemed excited about their own night in the wilds.

Further down the hill and we were into deciduous woodland, and passed houses - a strange feeling after another day of breathtaking emptiness.

Nick and Daniel headed for the youth hostel, while Jell and I had decided we’d climb a short way up Snowdon’s fore-slopes. After a vital stop for melted Mars bar and water, we stepped on, bodies tired and aching, but delighting in the evening warmth, and followed the Watkin Path up through the woods and beside the river. We emerged from the valley into Cwn Llan just as the sun was dipping below the horizon, and after a bit of searching crossed the river and tramped through some reedy grass to a slightly less midgy spot, and pitched our tent below Snowdon’s awesome slopes.


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