Image Copyright John Muir Trust (http://www.jmt.org/journey/)
Day 4

We woke to the sound of a peregrine family calling, and with the sun quickly heating the tent. We crawled out into the sunlight, amazed at the stunning bowl of mountains in which our tent was nestled, hidden and protected in a way so opposite from the almost malevolent and disorientating mist and rain of the night before.

We spread out all our wet gear on the large rock beside the tent - which we hadn’t seen the night before! The sun warmed us and our kit, and allowed a leisurely brew, breakfast and repacking.

JMT Journey For the Wild 184
JMT Journey For the Wild 200

We set off up the final ridge climbing out of the Rhinogs, the undergrowth still wet, but the sun rapidly erasing the memory of yesterday’s weather. Once over the ridge we could see the distant Moellwyns - tomorrow’s challenge. The route took us first downhill below steeply rising crags, where we stopped for a while to watch the herd of mountain goats, leaping between the rocks. As we stood, I heard a noise and turned to see three pairs of horns appear over the cliff a few feet away, before we were spotted and the goats scampered away to higher ground.

JMT Journey For the Wild 213

Our route then lead us into the cool of pine forest, pine needles soft underfoot, and foxgloves and willowherb in the grass.

We followed the tracks through the forest, initially on tiny paths, pushing through the branches, then on to larger tracks, graveled, and rising up out of the plantations. There was a bit of tricky navigation where recent tree cutting has resulted in a diverted path, and despite the orange marker poles it was still hard going clambering over the tree stumps, roots and branches. We were soon out of the woods though, and into more open moorland, grassy, tussocky, and stretching out down a long gentle hill in front of us. With walking poles we got into a good fast stride, yomping over the ground, avoiding the boggy patches, and using the convenient sheep tracks which headed straight to the farm buildings next to the track.

We crossed the little river next to the track on a fantastic clapper bridge, and were then on the farm track for a short distance before we hit tarmac road. This was certainly a shock to the tired feet, and in great contrast to the wilderness of the past two days.

JMT Journey For the Wild 237

We followed the meandering road to the large Llyn Trawsfynydd, gloriously blue in the sunshine, but noticeably artificial - not least in the looming grey concrete of the nuclear power station at the far end!

About half way round the lake, we struck off up a side track to find a good spot for lunch. We found a field with lambs, and the shade of an oak tree in which to make our brew. As we were sitting, relaxing, doing the last bit of drying out from yesterday we got a call from Nick and Daniel, who we were due to meet up with.

JMT Journey For the Wild 249

Nick had hurt his foot, and Daniel was quite concerned about him, and they told us that they were just heading out of the hills and down towards the lake. We found what we thought must be their path on the map, and Jell set off to meet them. But almost immediately after he’d left, the pair appeared, Daniel shouldering both packs! It turned out that we weren’t on our path - we were on their path - so a good job that we had all met up!

After a bit of first aid from the team doctor (Daniel!) we got underway again. We walked through the heat of open bracken and gorse moorland, and then struck back down to the lake, crossing over its head on the dam.

We headed on to Maentwrog, a long walk through the lanes, punishing on the tired feet, and where we hoped to find a shop to resupply some basics. We reached the village and in the absence of any kind of shop we decided on a quick drink and crisp snack in the pub instead - vital in replacing lost salts and fluids!

JMT Journey For the Wild 253


We still had a long way to go on towards Tanygrisiau reservoir and our penultimate night’s camp. We had to climb several hundred feet up to the Ffestiniog railway, but having gained that the walking was level. I was very tired, and it was in the gathering gloom that we reached the reservoir and pitched our tent for the night after a bit of searching for flat ground. It was another night of just crawling into sleeping bags, eating a simple meal, and sleep.

BuiltWithNOF
[Home] [Route] [Day 1] [Day 2] [Day 3] [Day 4] [Day 5] [Day 6] [Day 7]
Image Copyright John Muir Trust (http://www.jmt.org/journey/)